How to make a poncho

1. Materials & tools

Materials (standard size)

• Main fabric (wool, fleece, linen or double gauze) — about 140 cm wide × 140 cm (55 × 55 in)
• Bias tape for the neckline — about 70 cm (28 in)
• Optional: fringe trim or pompoms for the hem

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Poncho” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the width, length, neck opening and neck ease. Presets cover a short cape, standard and a long version.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the outline and the neck opening. Mark the neckline before you cut anything — it is easier to place while the fabric is still square.
2. Cut
   Cut the body, then cut out the neck opening.
3. Finish the edges
   Fleece and boiled wool can be left raw. Anything that frays needs the outer edges hemmed.

4. Sewing

4-1. Bind the neckline

1. Pin bias tape around the neck opening right sides together and sew.
2. Clip the seam allowance every 5 mm (¼ in) around the curve, turn the tape to the inside and topstitch it down.
3. Without those clips the neckline will not lie flat, however carefully you sew.

4-2. Hem the outer edges

1. Turn the outer edges under twice and stitch.
2. At the corners, fold one side first and then the other so the layers do not build up.

4-3. Finish

1. Add fringe or pompoms along the hem if you like.
2. Try it on and check the neckline sits where you want it — you can still adjust the drape by shifting the opening slightly.

✏️ Check the neck opening will actually go over your head before you bind it. Once the tape is on, enlarging it means unpicking. Measure around your head, not around your neck.

5. Tips & variations

• Fleece is the shortcut: it does not fray, so you only finish the neckline and you are done in an hour.
• Add a hood: attach the hood pattern from the hoodie to the neck opening instead of binding it.
• Make it uneven: cutting the front shorter than the back keeps it out of the way while still covering your back.