How to make a robe / dressing gown

1. Materials & tools

Materials (women's M)

• Main fabric (waffle, double gauze or linen) — about 110 cm wide × 250 cm (44 × 98 in)
• Optional: self-fabric belt loops for the sides
• Thread to match

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Robe / dressing gown” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, length, shoulder width, sleeve length, lapel fold width and ease. Presets cover women's M, men's M and a short version.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the back (on the fold), the fronts, the sleeves and the sash. The front edge already includes the allowance that folds back to form the lapel.
2. Cut
   Cut one back, two fronts (flipping the pattern for the second), two sleeves and one sash.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the shoulder, side and underarm allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders

1. Sew both shoulder seams and press the allowances open. A robe carries weight on the shoulders, so pressed-open seams sit better than pressed-to-one-side.

4-2. Attach the sleeves

1. Match the center of each sleeve head to the shoulder seam and sew the sleeve into the armhole.
2. Sew the sleeves in while the garment is still flat — the armhole is far easier to handle open than in the round.

4-3. Sides and underarms

1. Sew from the cuff along the underarm and down to the hem in one continuous line, lining the underarm seams up first.
2. If you are adding belt loops, catch them in the side seams now.

4-4. Fold back the lapel

1. Fold the allowance on each front edge to the inside — that fold is the lapel.
2. Topstitch it down in one run from the hem, around the neckline, to the other hem.
3. Clip the neckline curve so the lapel lies flat instead of standing away.

4-5. Cuffs, hem and sash

1. Turn the cuffs and hem under twice and stitch.
2. Fold the sash in quarters lengthwise, press and topstitch all round.
3. Thread it through the belt loops.

✏️ The fold-back allowance on the front edge is the lapel, so its width is the width of the lapel. Wider reads as a shawl collar, narrower as a light wrap. About 7 cm (2¾ in) is easy to sew and looks balanced.

5. Tips & variations

• Waffle for a bathrobe: absorbent and quick-drying, which is the whole job.
• Add pockets: catch pocket bags in the side seams for your phone and glasses.
• Belt loops are essential: without them the sash slides round and the robe falls open. They take five minutes.