How to make a samue (japanese work jacket)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (women's M)

• Main fabric (cotton, sashiko weave or denim) — about 110 cm wide × 200 cm (44 × 79 in)
• Optional: snap fasteners

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Samue (Japanese work jacket)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, length, shoulder width, sleeve length, front overlap, ease and tie length. Presets cover women's M and men's M/L.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the back, fronts, sleeves and ties.
2. Cut
   Cut one back, two fronts, two sleeves and four ties.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the shoulder, side and underarm allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders

1. Sew both shoulder seams and press the allowances open.

4-2. Attach the sleeves

1. Hem the cuff edge of each sleeve first, while the sleeve is still flat.
2. Match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam and sew it into the armhole.

4-3. Sew the sides

1. Sew from the underarm down to the hem on each side.

4-4. Finish the front edges, neckline and hem

1. Turn the front edges and neckline under twice in one continuous run and stitch.
2. Hem the lower edge the same way.

4-5. Attach the ties

1. Fold each of the four ties in quarters lengthwise and topstitch.
2. Sew them at the top of the side openings, positioned so that one pair ties on the inside and the other on the outside.

✏️ Tie the inside pair first, then the outside pair. That two-stage closure is what stops the front falling open when you move — a single tie will not hold it.

5. Tips & variations

• Make the set: tapered pants or jinbei shorts in the same fabric give you a complete samue.
• Sashiko weave: sashiko or kasuri cotton makes it look properly traditional rather than costume-like.
• As loungewear: double gauze makes a soft, light version for wearing at home.