How to make a jinbei top (kids)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (size 110 cm)

• Main fabric (cotton, crinkle cotton or shijira weave) — about 110 cm wide × 120 cm (44 × 47 in)
• Optional: snap fasteners if you want the front to close

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Kids' clothes” → “Jinbei top (kids)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, length, shoulder width, sleeve length, front overlap, ease and tie length. Presets cover 90–130 cm.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the back, fronts, sleeves and ties.
2. Cut
   Cut one back, two fronts, two sleeves and four ties.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the shoulder, side and underarm allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders

1. Sew both shoulder seams and press the allowances open.

4-2. Attach the sleeves

1. Hem the cuff edge of each sleeve first, while it is still flat.
2. Match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam and sew it into the armhole. Repeat on the other side.

4-3. Sew the sides

1. Sew each side from the underarm down to the hem. Leaving the upper part of the side seam open lets air through — which is the point of a jinbei.

4-4. Finish the front edges, neckline and hem

1. Turn the front edges and neckline under twice in one continuous run and stitch.
2. Hem the lower edge the same way.

4-5. Attach the ties

1. Fold each of the four ties in quarters lengthwise and topstitch.
2. Sew them at the top of the side openings so one pair ties inside the front and the other outside.

✏️ There are two pairs of ties for a reason: one ties inside the front, the other outside. Tie the inner pair first and the front cannot fall open however much a child runs about.

5. Tips & variations

• Make the set: jinbei shorts in the same fabric complete it, and the sizing labels match so you pick the same preset.
• Keep it cool: textured weaves like crinkle cotton do not stick to damp skin the way flat cotton does.
• Make two: children sweat through summer clothes. Having a spare saves a lot of evening laundry.