How to make jinbei shorts

1. Materials & tools

Materials (size 110 cm)

• Main fabric (cotton, crinkle cotton or shijira weave) — about 110 cm wide × 60 cm (44 × 24 in)
• Flat elastic (2 cm / ¾ in wide) — the child's waist measurement

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Kids' clothes” → “Jinbei shorts” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter hip, rise, inseam, ease and the waist casing. Presets cover 90–130 cm.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the cut line, seam line and the crotch curve.
2. Cut
   Cut two fronts and two backs from the same pattern, flipping it for the second of each pair.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the seam allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the crotch seams

1. Sew the two fronts together along the center front curve, then the two backs.

4-2. Sides and inseams

1. Sew both side seams, then the inseam in one run from hem to hem.
2. Backstitch two or three times over the crotch junction — it takes the strain when a child climbs.

4-3. Waist and hem

1. Fold the waist edge over twice to make a casing and stitch, leaving a gap.
2. Thread the elastic to about 85% of the child's waist, stitch the ends and close the gap.
3. Turn the hems up twice and stitch.

✏️ Children dress themselves, so do not make the elastic tight. About 85% of the actual waist is enough to stay up, and it is worth checking against the child rather than the tape measure.

5. Tips & variations

• Make the set: the jinbei top in the same fabric and size preset.
• Cool fabrics: textured weaves do not cling to damp skin.
• Plain colours: made up plain, these are simply good summer shorts.