How to make a kappogi (japanese cover-all apron)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (adult size)

• Main fabric (cotton, sheeting or broadcloth) — about 110 cm wide × 200 cm (44 × 79 in)
• Flat elastic (1 cm / ⅜ in wide) — about 40 cm (16 in) for the cuffs
• Optional: fabric for a pocket

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Kappogi (Japanese cover-all apron)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, length, shoulder width, sleeve length, cuff elastic and back tie length. Presets cover adult and child sizes.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the front, back, sleeves and back ties.
2. Cut
   Cut one front, one back, two sleeves and two ties.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the shoulder, side and underarm allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders

1. Sew both shoulder seams and press the allowances open.

4-2. Attach the sleeves

1. Match the center of each sleeve head to the shoulder seam and sew it into the armhole.
2. Turn each cuff under twice to make a casing and stitch, leaving a 2 cm (¾ in) gap for the elastic.

4-3. Sides and back opening

1. Sew from the cuff along the underarm and down the side in one line — but do not sew the center back closed. That opening is how you get into it.
2. Turn the back opening edges and the neckline under twice and stitch.

4-4. Ties, elastic and hem

1. Fold each tie in quarters lengthwise, topstitch, and sew them to the back at waist level.
2. Thread the cuff elastic, fit it around your wrist, stitch the ends and close the gap.
3. Turn the hem up twice and stitch.

✏️ Leaving the center back open is the whole point of a kappogi. Sew it closed and you cannot get it over your head, so watch that you do not run the side seam past the back opening.

5. Tips & variations

• Add a pocket: a large patch pocket at hip level on the front holds cloths and utensils.
• Water-repellent fabric: laminated or coated cotton is worth it if you do a lot of washing up.
• Child size: the child preset gives the size used for school lunch duty in Japan.