How to make a kappogi (japanese cover-all apron)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (adult size)

• Main fabric (cotton, sheeting or broadcloth) — about 110 cm wide × 230 cm (43 × 91 in)
• Flat elastic (1 cm / ⅜ in wide) — about 40 cm (16 in) for the cuffs
• Optional: fabric for a pocket

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Kappogi (Japanese cover-all apron)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, length, sleeve length, cuff circumference, neckline width and back tie length. The neck ties are half the back-tie length. Presets cover adult and child sizes.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the front, backs, sleeves, ties and neckline bias. Transfer the tie notches on the backs (back of the neck and side waist).
2. Cut
   Cut one front on the fold, a left and right back, two sleeves, two back ties, two neck ties and one bias strip for the neckline (at 45° to the grain). Each back has an overlap beyond the center back.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the shoulder, side and underarm allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders

1. Sew both shoulder seams and press the allowances open.

4-2. Back edges and neckline

1. Turn each back edge (the edge of the overlap) under 1 cm and 1 cm, and stitch.
2. Fold the bias strip in quarters and use it to bind the neckline from one back edge, around the front, to the other back edge. Turn each end in 1 cm.

4-3. Attach the sleeves

1. Match the center of each sleeve head to the shoulder seam and sew it into the armhole.

4-4. Underarms and sides

1. Sew from the cuff along the underarm and down the side in one line, leaving a 2 cm (¾ in) gap at the cuff for the elastic.

4-5. Cuffs, hem and ties

1. Turn each cuff under twice to make a casing and stitch. Thread the elastic, fit it to the wrist and stitch the ends.
2. Turn the hem up twice and stitch.
3. Fold the back ties and neck ties in quarters lengthwise, topstitch, and sew them to the backs at the notches (side waist, and just below the back neckline).

✏️ The back is two pieces and stays open; it closes with ties at the back of the neck and at the waist. Each back overlaps past the center back, so it stays covered when tied.

5. Tips & variations

• Add a pocket: a large patch pocket at hip level on the front holds cloths and utensils.
• Water-repellent fabric: laminated or coated cotton is worth it if you wash a lot of dishes.
• Child size: the child preset gives the size used for school lunch duty in Japan.