Poncho: sewing steps in pictures

1Place the front on the back, right sides together

Lay the back right side up, then place the front on top with its wrong side up, so the right sides face each other. Line up the shoulder edges and the neckline edges and pin.

The front has the deeper neckline — that is how you tell the two apart. For the lined version, do steps 1–4 for the outer fabric and the lining separately.

2Sew the left shoulder from the outer edge to the neckline

Sew along the stitching line from the outer edge of the shoulder to just before the neckline. Backstitch at the start and the end.

Leave the neckline in the middle open. Sew across it and your head will not go through.

3Sew the right shoulder the same way

Sew the other shoulder from the outer edge to just before the neckline, backstitching at both ends.

The front and back are now joined, with a hole left in the middle for your head.

4Press the shoulder seam allowances open

Open the poncho out flat, spread the shoulder seam allowances to either side and press them with the iron.

For fleece and other heat-sensitive fabrics, use a pressing cloth and a lower setting.

1Trim the neckline seam allowance

The neckline on the pattern includes a seam allowance. When you bind it with bias tape, trim the allowance off along the stitching line first.

Bind it without trimming and the neckline ends up smaller by the allowance, making it hard to get over your head.

2Sew bias tape around the neckline

Open out double-fold bias tape and place it on the neckline, right sides together. Starting at the center back, stitch along the fold line all the way round.

Ease the tape round the curve without stretching it. Fold the starting end under 1 cm (⅜ in) and overlap the finishing end on top of it by 1 cm for a neat join.

3Wrap the edge and stitch next to the tape

Turn the tape to the wrong side so it wraps the seam allowance, and press. From the right side, stitch all the way round, 1–2 mm (1/16 in) from the tape edge.

1Double-fold the hem and sides and press

Fold the seam allowance on the front and back hems and on both open sides in half, then fold again for a double fold. Pressing it first makes it much easier to sew.

Fleece does not fray, so you can leave it raw instead.

2Sew all the way round, starting at a shoulder seam

Start near a shoulder seam and sew side → hem → other side … all the way round, close to the inner fold. At the corners, just sew through the folds as they overlap.

That's it — finished. In fleece, you can snip the hem into 1 cm (⅜ in) strips for a fringe.

1Place the outer and lining right sides together

Open out the outer and the lining (each with its shoulders sewn) and lay them flat. Put the outer right side up and the lining on top, wrong side up. Match the shoulder seams, the neckline and the four corners, and pin.

Getting the shoulder seams to line up exactly is the secret to a neat finish.

2Sew all the way round the neckline

Sew along the stitching line all the way round the neckline. Start at the center back and overlap the start by about 1 cm (⅜ in) at the end.

3Sew round the outside, leaving a gap

Sew all the way round the outside edge (sides and hems) on the stitching line. Leave a gap of about 15 cm (6 in) in the middle of the back hem, and backstitch at both ends of the gap.

The thicker the fabric, the harder it is to turn — make the gap a little wider.

4Clip the neckline and trim the corners

Clip into the neckline seam allowance every 1–2 cm (½–¾ in), stopping 2 mm short of the stitching. Trim the allowance off the four corners at an angle, leaving about 3 mm (⅛ in) beyond the stitching.

This stops the neckline pulling once it is turned, and gives the corners crisp points.

1Turn it right side out through the gap

Reach in through the gap, pull everything out and turn it right side out. Push the corners out from inside with an awl.

2Press, and fold in the gap

Press so the seams sit exactly on the edge. At the gap, fold the outer and lining allowances in and pin.

The topstitching in the next step closes the gap as it goes (or slip-stitch it by hand).

3Topstitch 5 mm from the edge, round the outside and the neckline

Topstitch 5 mm (¼ in) from the edge all the way round the outside, then all the way round the neckline. The lining will no longer peek out, and the shape settles.

That's it — finished. Use two different fabrics and it is reversible.