How to make a vest (adult)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (women's M)

• Main fabric (linen, wool or tweed) — about 110 cm wide × 130 cm (44 × 51 in)
• Bias tape for the neckline and armholes — about 130 cm (51 in)
• Optional: 2–3 buttons

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Vest (adult)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, length, shoulder width, front neck depth and the front overlap. Presets cover women's S/M and men's M/L.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side of the fabric and trace the cut line and seam line.
2. Cut
   Cut one back with the center on the fold and two fronts, cutting the second with the pattern flipped over.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the shoulder and side seam allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders and sides

1. Place fronts and back right sides together, sew both shoulder seams and press the allowances open.
2. Sew both side seams and press those open too.

4-2. Bind the neckline and armholes

1. Bind in one continuous run: up one front edge, around the neckline and back down the other front edge.
2. Bind each armhole the same way. Go slowly around the curve and do not pull the tape.

4-3. Finish

1. If you have not bound the hem, turn it up twice and stitch.
2. Add buttons and buttonholes if you want it to fasten.

✏️ Let bias tape follow the curve rather than forcing it. Pull it and the edge puckers; leave it slack and the edge ripples. Feed it in at the rate the tape naturally wants to bend.

5. Tips & variations

• Add a lining: cut the same pattern in lining, sew right sides together and turn for a properly tailored finish.
• Make it long: set the length to about 80 cm (31 in) and you have a long gilet to layer over everything.
• Self-fabric binding: cutting your own bias strips from the main fabric looks far more considered than shop-bought tape.