How to make a jacket

1. Materials & tools

Materials (adult jacket)

• Outer fabric (cotton twill, wool, denim) — 110 cm wide × about 250 cm
• Lining (cotton or polyester) — 110 cm wide × about 230 cm (optional)
• Interfacing for the button stand — a little
• Buttons (1.5–2 cm) — 5–6

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Jacket” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, shoulder, length, sleeve and the button-stand width. Allow extra ease.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Cut the back
   Place the center-back on the fold and cut 1.
2. Cut the fronts
   Cut 1, then flip the pattern and cut a mirror image (2 total).
3. Cut the sleeves
   Cut 2 sleeves.
4. Interface
   Fuse interfacing to the front button-stand area.
5. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the seam-allowance edges.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders and sides

1. Sew the front and back at the shoulders and sides, right sides together; press open.

4-2. Finish the neckline

1. Finish the neckline by binding the seam allowance with bias tape or self fabric.

4-3. Set in the sleeves

1. Match the sleeve-cap notch to the shoulder seam and sew each sleeve in; press toward the sleeve.

4-4. Sew the underarm/side in one line

1. Sew from cuff to hem in one continuous seam; press open.

4-5. Finish the front opening

1. Fold back and topstitch the button stand.
2. Mark and make the buttonholes, then sew on the buttons.

4-6. Hem and cuffs

1. Fold and press the hem, then topstitch or slip-stitch. Finish the cuffs the same way.

5. Tips & variations

• Add a lining: a lining hides the seams and feels dressier.
• Topstitch: edge topstitching gives a crisp, tailored look.
• Press well: pressing each seam makes a big difference on a jacket.