How to make a pocket square

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one square, standard size)

• Fabric (silk, linen or fine cotton) — about 35 × 35 cm
• Hand-sewing thread (silk thread looks best)

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Pocket square” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the side length and the hem fold. Presets cover small, standard and large.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines.
2. Cut the piece
   Cut one. Keep the grain straight. Cut off-grain and it will not sit properly in the pocket.
3. Mark the hem
   Rule the fold line on all four sides.

4. Sewing

4-1. Fold the edges

1. Fold each side once at the marked line and press.
2. Fold again by the same amount.
3. At the corners, fold the diagonal first and then the two sides — that keeps the bulk down.

4-2. Hem by hand

1. Slip-stitch along the fold.
2. Catch only the fold on the underside so no thread shows on the face.
3. You can machine it, but a hand hem sits softer.

4-3. Finish

1. Press lightly.
2. Pressing hard flattens the rolled edge — hover the iron and use steam.

✏️ Cut it on the straight grain. Even slightly off-grain, one side droops when it is folded into a pocket and the shape never settles. Check the right angle with a ruler before cutting; it changes the result.

5. Tips & variations

• Match a tie: the same fabric as the necktie pulls the outfit together.
• Hem by hand: softer and more refined than a machine hem.
• Size changes the fold: smaller suits a square fold, larger a puff.