How to make a necktie

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one tie)

• Main fabric (silk, wool or a fine cotton) — about 110 cm wide × 50 cm (bias cutting needs extra)
• Tipping fabric for the back of the points — about 20 cm × 20 cm
• Necktie interlining — about 110 cm wide × 15 cm
• Hand-sewing thread for the slip stitch

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Necktie” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the overall length, the wide blade width, the narrow blade width and the width at the neck. Presets cover standard (8 cm), narrow (6 cm) and wide (9 cm).
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Find the grain
   Identify the direction of the lengthwise threads. The pattern must sit at 45 degrees to it — the arrow on the piece shows the direction.
2. Trace the pattern
   Trace the wide blade, the narrow blade and the keeper loop. Laying them on the bias uses more fabric than you would expect.
3. Cut the pieces
   Cut 1 wide blade, 1 narrow blade and 1 loop. Cut the interlining to the same shapes, minus the seam allowance.
4. Handling bias-cut fabric
   Once cut, it stretches easily. Carry it flat rather than letting it hang. Stretch it now and the finished tie will twist.

4. Sewing

4-1. Join the two blades

1. Place the narrow ends of the wide and narrow blades right sides together — the ends that meet at the back of the neck — and sew.
2. Because both pieces are on the bias, the join runs diagonally. That is correct.
3. Press the seam allowance open.

4-2. Tip the points

1. Place the tipping fabric on the point of the wide blade, right sides together, and sew the two edges of the V.
2. Trim the corner diagonally, turn right side out and push the point out with an awl.
3. Do the same on the narrow blade.

4-3. Wrap the interlining

1. Lay the interlining along the center line of the tie.
2. Fold both seam allowances in over it so they overlap slightly down the middle.
3. Slip stitch that overlap closed by hand, the whole length. Do not use the machine.
4. Let the thread stay slightly slack as you go. Sewn taut, the tie cannot give when you knot it and the fabric splits.

4-4. Add the keeper and finish

1. Fold the loop in four, topstitch and form it into a loop.
2. Stitch it to the back of the wide blade, about halfway down. The narrow blade passes through it.
3. Lay the tie flat and press lightly through a cloth — shaping it, not flattening it.

✏️ The bias cut is not optional. Cut on the straight grain, the knot will not pull up and a crease never falls out. It takes more fabric, but whether the thing behaves like a necktie is decided right here. The slack in the center slip stitch is there for the same reason.

5. Tips & variations

• Take one apart first: unpicking a tie you no longer wear shows you the whole construction, especially how the interlining sits and how loose the slip stitch is.
• Choose light fabric: heavy cloth makes an unwieldy knot. Fine silk or wool suits it.
• As a gift: for Father's Day or a graduation. Choosing the fabric yourself is something you only get by making it.