How to make a bifold wallet

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one wallet, standard size)

• Outer (canvas or faux leather) — about 30 × 32 cm
• Lining (light cotton) — about 30 × 15 cm
• Fabric for the card slots — about 30 × 30 cm
• Heavyweight fusible interfacing — about 30 × 15 cm
• A snap or magnetic clasp — 1
• Sewing thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Bags” → “Bifold wallet” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the opened width, the height and the number of card slots. Presets cover compact, standard and large.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines.
2. Cut the pieces
   One outer, one inner, one interfacing, and card slots to the number chosen.
3. Fuse the interfacing
   Fuse heavyweight interfacing to the outer. That is what gives the wallet its body.
4. Transfer the notches
   Mark the center fold line.

4. Sewing

4-1. Prepare the card slots

1. Turn the top edge of each slot under twice and stitch.
2. Stack them on the inner piece from the bottom up, offsetting each by 1.7 cm.
3. Uneven offsets make the cards awkward to reach. Measure and mark before stacking.

4-2. Fix the slots in place

1. Stitch the sides and bottom of the stack to the inner piece.
2. Do not stitch between the layers — that would close the slots.
3. Keep them clear of the center fold, one group each side.

4-3. Join outer and inner

1. Place them right sides together and sew round.
2. Leave about 8 cm open along the bottom.
3. Trim the corner allowances diagonally — it is thick, and without that the corners will not turn out.

4-4. Turn and finish

1. Turn through the gap and ease the corners out.
2. Press, then topstitch all round, closing the gap.
3. Fold at the center notch and crease.
4. Fit the clasp with the wallet closed so the positions match.

✏️ Measure the offsets between card slots. Stacking by eye leaves uneven gaps and the cards become awkward to pull out. Mark 1.7 cm intervals with a ruler before stacking — that step decides how the wallet handles.

5. Tips & variations

• Heavyweight interfacing: this is what gives the wallet its body.
• Choose the slot count: three is standard, four if you carry more cards.
• Clasp last: fold it first and mark where the halves actually meet.