How to make a long wallet

1. Materials & tools

Materials (standard size)

• Main fabric (faux leather, canvas or heavy cotton) — about 60 × 40 cm (24 × 16 in)
• Lining fabric — the same amount
• Card pocket fabric — about 40 × 30 cm (16 × 12 in)
• Firm fusible interfacing — for the main fabric
• Zip for the coin section — about 15 cm (6 in)
• Snap fastener — 1 set

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Bags” → “Long wallet” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the note width and height, card pocket height, coin section height and thickness. Presets cover standard, slim and large.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the body, the card pockets and the coin section, and mark the center fold.
2. Cut
   Cut the body in main and lining, two or three card pockets and one coin section piece.
3. Apply interfacing
   Fuse firm interfacing to the main fabric.

4. Sewing

4-1. Make the card pockets

1. Turn the top edge of each card pocket under twice and stitch.
2. Stack them at staggered heights so each slot is visible.

4-2. Attach the pockets

1. Lay them on the lining, from the lowest upward, aligning the sides.
2. Stitch vertically to divide them into slots — about 6 cm (2⅜ in) per card. Backstitch at the top of each line.
3. Work from the bottom up; attaching the top one first puts it under the presser foot when you sew the ones below.

4-3. Make the coin section

1. Fold the coin piece in half and set the zip into the opening.
2. Attach it to the lining on the opposite side from the card pockets.

4-4. Assemble and fold

1. Place main and lining right sides together and sew around, leaving a 12 cm (5 in) gap.
2. Trim the corners, turn, press and topstitch all the way around.
3. Fold at the center, load the wallet and fit the snap with everything inside.

✏️ Attach card pockets from the bottom upward. Sew the top one on first and every pocket below it has to be sewn with the finished one bunched under the presser foot.

5. Tips & variations

• Stagger the slots: each card should show a centimeter of itself so you can find the right one.
• Do not over-interface: too stiff and the wallet springs open in your bag.
• Faux leather: it has body without interfacing, but every needle hole is permanent.