How to make a tote bag

1. Materials & tools

Materials (lesson-bag size)

• Main fabric (oxford, canvas or other medium/heavy weight) — about 70 × 90 cm (28 × 35 in)
• Fabric for the handles, or webbing — about 4 × 120 cm (1.5 × 47 in)
• Optional: lining fabric and fusible interfacing

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Bags” → “Tote bag” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
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3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side of the fabric and trace the cut line (outer solid line) and the seam line (inner dashed line). Align the grain (lengthwise threads) with the grainline on the pattern.
2. Cut
   Cut the body as one piece with the base on the fold, and cut 2 handles. The squares (notch marks) at the base corners are cut out after sewing the sides and base.
3. Finish the edges
   For fabrics that fray, zigzag or serge the seam-allowance edges after cutting for a cleaner finish.

4. Sewing

4-1. Make the handles

1. Fold each handle piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the long edge. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch both edges for strength. (Skip this step if you use ready-made webbing.)

4-2. Baste the handles

1. On the right side of the bag opening (top edge), baste the handle ends at equal distances from the center. Make sure the handles are not twisted.

4-3. Sew the sides

1. Fold the body at the base, right sides together, pin the two sides and sew with the seam allowance (1–1.5 cm).
2. Press the seam allowances open.

4-4. Box the corners

1. At each base corner, open it into a triangle so the side seam lines up with the base fold.
2. Sew straight across the notch line (gusset line). Do the same at both base corners.
3. Trim the triangle tip leaving 1 cm, or leave it and fold it down.

4-5. Finish the opening

1. Fold the opening under by the seam allowance, then fold again 2–3 cm to make a double fold; press and topstitch all the way around. Flip the handles up and topstitch once more for strength.
2. Turn right side out, shape it, and you're done.

5. Tips & variations

• Make it sturdier: add fusible interfacing to the back of the body, or add a lining for a double-layer bag that keeps its shape.
• Strengthen the base: add a separate base panel or insert a base board for heavier loads.
• Deeper gusset: increase the “gusset” value for a roomier, more three-dimensional bag that fits boxes and bulky items.