How to make a jinbei top (adult)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one top, size M)

• Main fabric (cotton, crepe or shijira weave) — about 110 cm wide × 310 cm (43 × 122 in)
• Sewing thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Jinbei top (adult)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the chest, length, sleeve length, front overlap, collar width and ease. Presets cover S to XL.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines. The back's center line is the fold. The front is a separate piece: wider at the front by the overlap, with a V neckline.
2. Cut the pieces
   Back on the fold, 2 fronts (mirrored), 1 collar, 4 ties.
3. Transfer the notches
   Mark where the side opening stops and the tie positions on the front edges and sides. Below the side notch you do not sew.
4. Finish the edges
   Zigzag the seam allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Shoulders and underarms

1. Place front and back right sides together and sew both shoulders, continuing along the top of the sleeve.
2. The sleeves are cut in one with the body, so there is nothing to set in.
3. Sew from the underarm down the side, stopping at the notch. Below it, leave the seam open. Catch a tie at the side tie notch (inside on the left, outside on the right).

4-2. Finish the side openings

1. Turn the allowances under twice from the notch to the hem and stitch.
2. Backstitch at the notch — that point takes the strain.

4-3. Attach the collar

1. Fold the collar in half lengthwise and press.
2. Match the collar center to the center back and sew it from the hem of one front edge, around the neckline, to the hem of the other, enclosing the raw edge. It is cut to exactly that length.
3. Catch a tie in the collar at each front-edge notch.

4-4. Cords and hems

1. Fold each tie in four and topstitch before catching it in the collar or side seam. Four in all.
2. Tie the right front edge to the inside left side, and the left front edge to the outside right side.
3. Hem the cuffs and the bottom.

✏️ Leave the side seams open for about a third of the length from the hem. That opening is what makes it a jinbei, and it is why air moves through it. Sew the sides closed and you have an ordinary straight-cut shirt. Mark the stopping point before you sew.

5. Tips & variations

• Make the set: the samue pants in the same fabric complete it.
• Fabric: shijira and crepe weaves stand away from the skin and stay cool.
• Match a child: the kids' jinbei top covers smaller sizes.