How to make a yoga mat bag

1. Materials & tools

Materials (standard, for a 180 cm mat)

• Main fabric (11 oz canvas, oxford cloth or duck) — about 110 cm wide × 90 cm
• Cord (5 mm round cord) — about 100 cm
• Webbing, 2.5 cm wide, if you prefer it for the strap — as given on the guide sheet
• Eyelets, 1 cm — 2 sets, for the cord exits

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Bags” → “Yoga mat bag” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the diameter of the rolled mat, the mat length, the ease and the shoulder strap length. Presets cover standard, thick mats and short travel mats.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the mat
   Roll the mat the way you normally do and measure the diameter and the length. Rolling style makes a real difference — if you roll loosely, allow more diameter.
2. Check the cut sizes
   The side is a rectangle and the base is a circle. Mark the side straight onto the fabric rather than printing it.
3. Cut the pieces
   Cut 1 side, 1 round base and 1 shoulder strap. For the base, trace round a plate or a bowl.
4. Finish the edges
   Zigzag the side seam allowance and the edge of the base.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the side into a tube

1. Fold the side piece in half right sides together and sew the seam to form a tube.
2. Leave the seam open from the top edge down to the notch. That gap is where the cord comes in and out.
3. Press the seam allowance open and backstitch at the bottom of the gap.

4-2. Attach the round base

1. Place the lower edge of the tube and the base right sides together.
2. Pin at four points first — front, back and both sides — then fill in between. You are matching a circle to a straight edge, so distribute it evenly a little at a time.
3. Sew all the way round. Clipping the tube's seam allowance every 5 mm helps it follow the circle.
4. Zigzag the seam allowance.

4-3. Make the drawstring casing

1. Fold the top edge over by 1 cm, then again by 3 cm.
2. Stitch close to the fold all the way round. Make sure the gap you left in the side seam opens into this channel.
3. Thread the cord and knot the ends.

4-4. Attach the shoulder strap

1. Fold the strap in four and topstitch. If you are using webbing, use it as it is.
2. Sew one end at the top of the side seam and the other beside the base on the same side. Stitch a box with a cross through it — that is the strongest.
3. Load the mat and check the strap length on your shoulder. Shorten it if it hangs too low.

✏️ When attaching the round base, pin the four quarter points before you pin anything else. Start sewing straight from one end and you will always have fabric left over at the finish. The circumference and the tube are drafted to the same length, but fabric stretches — distributing it evenly is the only trick there is.

5. Tips & variations

• Be generous with the ease: how thick the roll ends up depends on how you roll it. Treat 2 cm of ease as the minimum.
• Use a heavy fabric: a mat is heavy and a light fabric gives way at the base. Choose 11 oz canvas or heavier.
• Eyelets for the cord: eyelets instead of a gap in the seam look neater and do not fray.