How to make a wall pocket organizer

1. Materials & tools

Materials (standard size)

• Outer fabric (canvas, oxford cloth or heavy cotton) — about 110 cm wide × 100 cm
• Lining fabric — the same amount
• Fabric for the pockets — depending on the number of rows
• Heavyweight fusible interfacing — enough for the backing panel
• A tension rod or wooden dowel — slightly wider than the panel

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Home” → “Wall pocket organizer” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the panel width and height, the pocket height, the number of rows and the hanging loop width. Presets cover small, standard and large.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace three pieces: the backing panel, the pocket strips and the hanging loops. Mark the position of each row of pockets on the panel as well.
2. Cut the pieces
   Cut 1 panel in the outer fabric and 1 in the lining, one pocket strip per row, and 2 loops.
3. Fuse the interfacing
   Fuse heavyweight interfacing to the wrong side of the outer panel. Be generous here — it is what stops the panel sagging under the weight of the contents.

4. Sewing

4-1. Hem the top edge of each pocket strip

1. Double-fold the top edge of each pocket strip by 1 cm and 1 cm again, then stitch.
2. Do this for every row before you go any further. Once a strip is attached to the panel you cannot reach this edge.

4-2. Attach the pockets to the panel

1. Spread out the outer panel and lay the pocket strips on, starting with the bottom row and working up.
2. Line up the bottom edge of each strip with its marked position and stitch it down.
3. For roomier pockets, take a 1–2 cm tuck along the bottom edge before stitching. That gives the pocket depth for bulkier items.
4. Baste the side edges too, inside the seam allowance.

4-3. Divide into compartments

1. Stitch vertical lines through each row to divide it into compartments. Set the widths to suit what you want to store.
2. Always backstitch at the start of each line (the top edge of the pocket). This is where it will tear.
3. You can also leave a row undivided as one wide pocket, which is handier for large items.

4-4. Finish the panel and add the loops

1. Fold each loop in four, topstitch, then fold it in half to make a loop.
2. Lay the outer panel and lining right sides together, tucking the raw ends of the loops in at the top edge, pointing inwards.
3. Sew all the way round leaving a 15 cm opening, turn right side out and press.
4. Topstitch 5 mm from the edge all the way round. Slide a rod through the loops and hang it up.

✏️ Attach the pockets from the bottom row upwards. If you start at the top, the finished upper pockets end up jammed under the presser foot while you sew the rows below. And never skip the backstitching at the top of each dividing line — that is exactly where a wall pocket tears with use.

5. Tips & variations

• Vary the row heights: deeper at the bottom, shallower at the top, and you can see what is in each pocket.
• Tuck the pockets: a tuck along the bottom edge turns a flat pocket into a gusseted one that holds bulky things.
• Behind a door: hang it on the back of a door and you gain storage without changing how the room looks. Great in a child's room or a bathroom.