How to make a remote control caddy

1. Materials & tools

Materials (standard size)

• Outer fabric (linen, canvas or heavy cotton) — about 50 cm × 100 cm
• Lining fabric — the same amount
• Fabric for the pocket — about 30 cm × 25 cm
• Heavyweight fusible interfacing — enough for the outer
• Optional: a weight for the inner drop (poly pellets or a small bag of sand)

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Home” → “Remote control caddy” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the armrest width, the front drop, the inner drop, the pocket height and the number of compartments. Presets cover narrow, standard and wide armrests.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the armrest
   Measure the width across the top of the sofa arm, and how far you want the caddy to hang on the front and on the inside.
2. Trace the pattern
   Trace the band and the pocket panel. The section between the notches on the band is the part that sits on top of the armrest.
3. Cut the pieces
   Cut 1 band in the outer fabric and 1 in the lining, plus 1 pocket panel.
4. Fuse the interfacing
   Fuse heavyweight interfacing to the wrong side of the outer band. That is what stops the caddy sagging once the pockets are loaded.

4. Sewing

4-1. Make the pocket

1. Double-fold the top edge of the pocket panel by 1 cm and 1 cm again and stitch. That is the opening.
2. Fold the seam allowance of the other three edges 1 cm to the wrong side and press.

4-2. Attach the pocket to the band

1. Spread out the outer band and lay the pocket on the section that will hang down at the front.
2. Check the orientation before you pin: the pocket opening must face upwards when the caddy is draped over the sofa arm. Get it upside down and the remotes fall out.
3. Stitch the three folded edges down, 2–3 mm from the edge.
4. Stitch vertical dividing lines at the notches. About 5–6 cm per remote is a good width.
5. Always backstitch at the start of each line — the top of the pocket.

4-3. Assemble the band

1. Lay the outer and lining bands right sides together and sew all the way round, leaving a 12 cm opening.
2. If you are adding a weight, tuck the small bag into the tip of the inner drop at this stage.
3. Trim the four corner seam allowances diagonally and turn right side out through the opening.
4. Press, then topstitch 5 mm from the edge all the way round. That closes the opening too.

4-4. Fit it to the sofa

1. Drape it over the armrest.
2. Check that the section between the notches sits flat on top of the arm and that both sides hang naturally.
3. If it slides, lengthen the inner drop or add more weight to the tip.

✏️ The one thing to get right is which way the pocket faces. With the band flat on the table, the pocket opening looks like it is pointing down. Once the caddy is draped over the sofa arm the front drops, and in that position the opening faces up — that is correct. Picture it hanging before you place the pins.

5. Tips & variations

• The inner drop is the counterweight: without it the loaded pockets pull the caddy off. A little shorter than the front drop is the balanced length.
• Fit the dividers to real remotes: lay your own remotes out and measure before deciding where the dividing lines go.
• Beside the bed too: tucked between the mattress and the frame, it becomes a home for a phone and a book.