How to make an overalls (dungarees)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (size M)

• Main fabric (denim, linen or twill) — about 110 cm wide × 220 cm (44 × 87 in)
• Flat elastic (2.5–3 cm / 1 in wide) — for the back waist
• Overall buckles and buttons — 2 sets
• Optional: fabric for a bib pocket

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Overalls (dungarees)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter hip, rise, inseam, bib width and height, strap length and width, ease and the waist casing. Presets cover S, M, L and a cropped version.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the legs, the bib and the straps.
2. Cut
   Cut two fronts and two backs, the bib in outer and lining, and two straps.
3. Finish the edges
   Serge or zigzag the crotch, side and inseam allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Make the bib and straps

1. Sew the bib outer and lining right sides together, leaving the lower edge open. Turn, press and topstitch the edges.
2. Fold each strap in quarters lengthwise and topstitch both long edges. Make two.
3. If you want a bib pocket, sew it on now while the bib is still flat.

4-2. Sew the legs

1. Sew the two fronts together at the center front curve, then the two backs.
2. Lay them right sides together and sew both side seams, then the inseam in one run from hem to hem. Reinforce the crotch junction.

4-3. Attach the bib and straps

1. Pin the lower edge of the bib to the center front waist edge, right sides together, and sew.
2. Baste the strap ends to the back waist edge, crossing them if you prefer.
3. Fold the waist edge over twice to make a casing, catching the bib and straps, and stitch — leaving a gap at the back for the elastic.
4. Thread elastic through the back section only, so the front stays flat.

4-4. Finish

1. Fit the buckles to the strap ends and sew the buttons to the bib.
2. Turn the hems up twice and stitch.

✏️ Elasticate the back of the waist only. Run elastic all the way round and the bib gathers up and sits badly; a flat front with a stretchy back is what makes overalls fit.

5. Tips & variations

• Adjustable straps: overall buckles let you set the length after you have made them, which matters more than you would think.
• Cross the straps: crossing them at the back stops them sliding off your shoulders.
• Denim needle: heavy denim will break a universal needle at the seam intersections. Use a jeans needle.