How to make a dress (with sleeves)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (adult dress)

• Woven fabric (cotton, linen, double gauze) — 110 cm wide × about 300 cm
• Bias tape for the neckline (and armholes) — the relevant lengths
• An invisible zipper or waist elastic — 1

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Dress (with sleeves)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, waist, hip, bodice length, skirt length and sleeve length.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Cut the bodice
   Cut the front and back bodice each on the fold (1 each).
2. Cut the skirt
   Cut the front and back skirt each on the fold (1 each).
3. Cut the sleeves
   Cut 2 sleeves.
4. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the seam-allowance edges.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the bodice

1. Sew the front and back bodice at the sides, right sides together; press open.

4-2. Sew the skirt

1. Sew the skirt front and back at the sides (leave room for a zipper at the back if using one); press open.

4-3. Join the bodice and skirt

1. Match the bodice waist to the skirt waist, aligning centers and side notches, and sew.
2. Press the seam up toward the bodice.

4-4. Finish the neckline

1. Bind the neckline with bias tape and press the seam to the inside.

4-5. Set in the sleeves

1. Match the sleeve-cap notch to the shoulder and sew each sleeve in.
2. Sew the sleeve underarm seams and press.

4-6. Hem the skirt and cuffs

1. Double-fold and topstitch the skirt hem and the sleeve cuffs; press.

5. Tips & variations

• Closure: an invisible back zipper gives a fitted look; elastic at the waist is easier.
• Length: adjust bodice and skirt lengths to your height.
• Pockets: in-seam skirt pockets are handy.