How to make a blouse

1. Materials & tools

Materials (adult blouse)

• Woven fabric (shirting, double gauze, linen) — 110 cm wide × about 200 cm
• Buttons (1–1.2 cm) — 7–9
• Interfacing for the button stand and neckline — a little
• Bias tape for the neckline — the neckline length

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Blouse” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, shoulder, length, sleeve and the button-stand width. Presets cover S–XL.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Cut the back
   Place the center-back on the fold and cut 1.
2. Cut the fronts
   Cut 1 with the front pattern, then flip it and cut a mirror image (2 total).
3. Cut the sleeves
   Cut 2 sleeves.
4. Finish the edges
   Finish the seam-allowance edges; the front button-stand edge depends on your finish.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders and sides

1. Sew the front and back at the shoulders and sides, right sides together; press open.

4-2. Finish the neckline

1. Measure the neckline and cut bias tape to fit.
2. Sew the bias tape around the neckline, turn it in and press.

4-3. Set in the sleeves

1. Match the sleeve-cap notch to the shoulder seam and sew each sleeve into the armhole; press toward the sleeve.

4-4. Sew the underarm/side in one line

1. Sew from the sleeve cuff down to the hem in one continuous seam; press.

4-5. Finish the front opening

1. Fold back the button stand on each front, press and topstitch.
2. Mark and make the buttonholes, then sew the buttons on the opposite side.

4-6. Hem

1. Double-fold and press the hem, then topstitch 2 mm from the edge.

5. Tips & variations

• Crisp collar area: interface the button stand and neckline.
• Sleeve length: shorten for short sleeves or add a cuff.
• Fabric: double gauze is soft; shirting is crisp and smart.