How to make a noren (japanese doorway curtain)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (standard size)

• Main fabric (linen, cotton-linen or cotton) — about 110 cm wide × 150 cm
• A tension rod or wooden dowel, slightly wider than the finished width
• Thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Home” → “Noren (Japanese doorway curtain)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the finished width, length, the number of panels, the slit length, the rod pocket height and the hem and side turn-backs. Presets cover small windows and shelves, standard, and room dividers.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure where it will hang
   Measure the drop from the rod position down, and the width you want to cover. A noren normally stops 10 to 20 cm short of the floor rather than reaching it.
2. Check the cut sizes
   The guide sheet shows cut sizes that already include the turn-backs. It is a rectangle, so rule the measurements straight onto the fabric rather than printing.
3. Cut the panels
   Cut as many panels as you have chosen. Two is standard; three makes it easier to walk through.
4. Straighten the grain
   Square the fabric up before cutting. Pulling out a single lengthwise thread and cutting along that line gives you a truly straight edge.

4. Sewing

4-1. Hem the sides and bottom

1. Double-fold both side edges of each panel by the given turn-back and stitch.
2. Hem the bottom edge the same way.
3. Press the folds before stitching. A noren is seen hanging, so a wandering seam line shows.
4. Remember to finish the inner edges — the edges of the slits — as well as the outer side edges.

4-2. Join the panels at the top

1. Place the panels right sides together and sew from the top edge down to the point where the slit begins.
2. In other words, sew only the upper part and leave the lower part open. That opening is the slit.
3. The end of that seam takes the strain every time someone walks through. Backstitch two or three times over it.
4. Press the seam allowances open.

4-3. Make the rod pocket

1. Fold the top edge over by 1 cm, then again by the rod pocket height.
2. Topstitch close to the fold, straight from one side to the other. This channel takes the rod.
3. Allow 5 mm clearance above and below the diameter of your rod. Made to the exact size, it will not go on.

4-4. Hang it up

1. Slide the rod through and fit it in place.
2. Arrange how far the slits fall open with your hands.
3. If it turns out too long, deepen the fold at the top rather than cutting the hem.

✏️ Always reinforce the end of the slit seam. A noren is pushed aside by hand every time somebody passes through, so that one point takes the strain over and over. Backstitch two or three times, or run a short horizontal bar tack across it, and it will survive years of use.

5. Tips & variations

• Keep it off the floor: a noren that reaches the floor gets trodden on and dirty. Ending 10 to 20 cm short is the norm.
• Make the slits long: short slits are awkward to walk through and you end up lifting the panel every time. About two-thirds of the length is comfortable.
• Screen a kitchen: hung in front of a dresser or a washing machine, it hides cluttered storage in one move.