How to make a curtain

1. Materials & tools

Materials (a pair for a sill-height window)

• Main fabric (curtain fabric, blackout fabric or linen) — 3–8 m depending on the window
• Curtain tape (heading tape) — rail width × fullness ratio × 2 panels
• Curtain hooks — as many as the tape needs
• Optional: weight tape for the hem

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Home” → “Curtain” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the rail width, curtain length, fullness ratio and the top, hem and side turn-backs. Presets cover small, sill-height, floor-length and wide windows.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the window carefully
   Measure the rail width end to end, and the drop from the hook position to the floor (or to the bottom of the window frame). Measure the drop in three places — left, center and right — and use the shortest figure.
2. Check the cut sizes
   The guide sheet shows cut sizes that already include fullness and turn-backs. Curtains are large, so rather than printing the pattern, mark these measurements straight onto the fabric and cut.
3. Cut the panels
   Cut two panels, one for each side. With a print, shift the cutting position so the motifs line up between the two panels.
4. If the fabric is not wide enough
   Join two widths. Place the seam towards the outer edge rather than the middle of the window and it will hardly show.

4. Sewing

4-1. Hem the sides

1. Double-fold both side edges by the given turn-back and press. The panels are long, so press as you go rather than all at once.
2. Topstitch close to the fold, straight from top to bottom.
3. Because the fabric is heavy, set a table beside the machine to support it. Otherwise the weight drags the fabric and the stitching wanders.

4-2. Hem the bottom

1. Double-fold the hem by the given turn-back. A curtain hem is normally deep — 5 to 10 cm. The weight makes the fabric hang straight and drape well.
2. Topstitch close to the fold.
3. If you are using weight tape, tuck it into the fold before stitching.

4-3. Attach the curtain tape

1. Fold the top edge to the inside by the given turn-back.
2. Lay the curtain tape over it and stitch along both long edges of the tape.
3. Curtain tape has evenly spaced pockets for the hooks. Check that the tape is the right way up (pocket openings facing down) before you stitch.

4-4. Hook it up

1. Push the hooks into the tape pockets at even intervals.
2. Hang the curtain on the rail and check the length. If it is slightly long, moving the hooks down one row of pockets adjusts it by a few centimeters.
3. Make the second panel the same way.

✏️ Do not skip "measure the drop in three places". Neither window frames nor floors are truly level. If you do not work to the shortest measurement, one side will drag on the floor. Conversely, you can fine-tune by purpose: leave sheers 1 cm clear of the floor, let blackout curtains puddle 1 cm.

5. Tips & variations

• Fullness changes the look: 1.5× hangs almost flat; 2× gives a generous drape. The thinner the fabric, the more fullness it needs to look expensive.
• Do not print the pattern: a curtain is a rectangle. Ruling the lines straight onto the fabric from the guide sheet is faster and more accurate than taping dozens of A4 sheets together.
• Make the hem deep: a turn-back of 5 cm or more lets the weight pull the fabric into an even drape. Skimping here is what makes a curtain look cheap.