How to make a kids' cape

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one cape, size 120)

• Main fabric (satin, felt, fleece or cotton) — about 110 cm wide × 80 cm
• Optional: lining fabric (a contrasting color looks convincing)
• Thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Kids' clothes” → “Kids' cape” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the length, the hem circumference, the neck measurement, the collar height and the tie length. Presets cover 100, 120 and 140 cm.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Choose the length
   Measure from the base of the neck to where you want the hem. Mid-calf moves well; floor length gets stepped on.
2. Trace the pattern
   Trace the body, the collar and the ties. Place the body with the center back on the fold. Everything is a rectangle.
3. Cut the pieces
   Cut 1 body on the fold, 1 collar in the outer and 1 in the lining, and 2 ties.
4. Finish the edges
   The hem and front edges are double-folded, so nothing is needed there. Zigzag the top edge so it does not fray while you gather it.

4. Sewing

4-1. Hem the front edges and the bottom

1. Double-fold the front edges by 1 cm and 1 cm again and stitch.
2. Then hem the bottom by 1 cm and 2 cm.
3. Do this first. Once the collar is on, the fabric is awkward to turn under the machine.
4. Satin slips, so press the folds firmly before you stitch.

4-2. Gather the top edge

1. Sew two rows of long machine stitches (about 4 mm) at 5 mm and 1 cm from the top edge. Do not backstitch.
2. Pull both top threads together to gather the fabric. Work from one side at a time.
3. Gather until it matches the length of the collar. You are pulling a hem of roughly four times the neck measurement into the neck, so expect a lot of fullness.
4. Run your fingers along to spread the gathers evenly rather than letting them bunch.

4-3. Attach the collar

1. Fold the ties in four and topstitch.
2. Place the outer collar and the gathered top edge right sides together and sew, catching the end of a tie at each end.
3. Lay the collar lining on, and sew the top edge and both ends.
4. Turn right side out, fold the lining's seam allowance under and slipstitch it to the seam line.

4-4. Finish

1. Topstitch 3 mm from the edge all the way round the collar.
2. Pull out the long gathering stitches wherever they still show.
3. Try it on and check that the neck is not tight and the length is not too long.

✏️ Always sew two rows of gathering stitches, not one. With a single row the fabric twists as you pull and the gathers slide to one side. With the fabric held between two rows, the folds stay upright and even. Pull a little from each end alternately.

5. Tips & variations

• Black satin for Halloween: line it in red and the flash of color as it swings sells the whole costume. Felt needs no edge finishing at all.
• Fleece for winter: made in fleece it becomes a genuinely warm layer, and fleece does not fray so the hems can be left raw.
• Add a hood: swap the collar for a hood and you have Red Riding Hood or a wizard. A hood is just two half-circles sewn together.