How to make a gamaguchi wallet

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one purse, 12 cm frame)

• Outer (cotton, Japanese print or canvas) — about 40 × 20 cm
• Lining (light cotton) — about 40 × 20 cm
• A gamaguchi frame, 12 cm — 1
• Paper cord — supplied with the frame
• Lightweight fusible interfacing — about 40 × 20 cm
• An awl and craft glue

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Bags” → “Gamaguchi wallet” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the frame width, the depth and the gusset. Presets cover 8.5, 12 and 15 cm frames.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the frame
   Buy the frame first and measure its width. You cannot make this without one.
2. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines.
3. Cut the pieces
   Two outer and two lining.
4. Transfer the notches
   Mark where the frame is inserted on the top edge. You only sew below it.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew outer and lining separately

1. Place the two outer pieces right sides together and sew from notch to notch, round the bottom. Above the notches, leave open.
2. Do the same with the lining, leaving about 6 cm open in the base.
3. Clip the curved allowance.

4-2. Box the corners

1. Pinch each bottom corner so the side seam meets the base seam, and sew across at the gusset width.
2. Four corners in all — two in the outer, two in the lining.

4-3. Join outer and lining

1. Turn the outer right side out and drop it inside the lining, which stays wrong side out.
2. Sew round the frame opening.
3. Turn through the gap in the lining and close it.

4-4. Set it into the frame

1. Run a thin line of glue into the frame's channel.
2. Push the fabric in, working center first, then the two ends. Filling from one end always ends up out of true.
3. Press the paper cord in with an awl.
4. Wipe off any glue before it dries.

✏️ Set the fabric into the frame from the center outwards. Working from one end always leaves you short or with too much in the last few centimeters. Fix the center, then the two ends, then the sections between — that way it goes in true.

5. Tips & variations

• Buy the frame first: the pattern is built around its actual width.
• Paper cord comes with the frame: a few strands of kite string will do at a pinch.
• An awl is essential: for pushing the cord in. A small flat screwdriver also works.