How to make a fabric storage basket

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one basket, standard size)

• Outer fabric (8 oz canvas or heavy linen) — about 110 cm wide × 60 cm
• Lining fabric — the same amount
• Heavyweight fusible interfacing or fusible fleece — enough for the outer
• Optional: cardboard or corrugated plastic for the base

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Home” → “Fabric storage basket” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the finished width, depth, height and the cuff depth. Presets cover small, standard and large.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the space
   If it goes on a shelf, subtract about 2 cm from the shelf's inside measurements. Cut to the exact size and you will not be able to get it in and out.
2. Trace the pattern
   Trace two pieces: the continuous side and the base. The side has three notches that match the corners of the base.
3. Cut the pieces
   Cut 1 side and 1 base in the outer, and the same in the lining. The side piece is long, so spread the fabric out to cut it.
4. Fuse the interfacing
   Fuse heavyweight interfacing to the outer pieces. Whether the basket stands up is decided here, so do not substitute something lighter.

4. Sewing

4-1. Join the side into a ring

1. Place the short ends of the side piece right sides together and sew, forming a ring.
2. Press the seam allowance open. Position that seam at a back corner and it will hardly show.
3. Do the same with the lining.

4-2. Attach the base

1. Place the lower edge of the ring and the base right sides together.
2. Pin the notches on the side to the four corners of the base. Each stretch between notches corresponds to one edge of the base.
3. Sew all the way round. At each corner, stop with the needle down, clip into the side's seam allowance and pivot 90°. Without the clip the fabric will not turn.
4. Attach the lining base the same way.

4-3. Join outer and lining

1. Turn the outer right side out and slip it inside the lining, which stays wrong side out.
2. Sew around the opening, leaving a 12 cm gap for turning.
3. Turn right side out through the gap and push the lining down inside.

4-4. Cuff it and finish

1. Close the gap with ladder stitch.
2. Topstitch 5 mm from the opening edge all the way round.
3. Turn the opening down to the outside. The doubled rim is what keeps the shape.
4. A piece of cardboard or corrugated plastic in the base stops it sagging when loaded.

✏️ The corners of the base are the only difficult part. The side is a single band, so you have to clip its seam allowance at each corner or the fabric will not go round. Clip to within 1 mm of the stitching, no further — cut too deep and it tears there.

5. Tips & variations

• The interfacing decides it: whether it stands up is entirely down to the weight of the interfacing. If it slumps, use fusible fleece instead.
• The cuff is structural: turning the opening down doubles the rim and holds the shape. It is not only decorative.
• Make a set: two or three the same size lined up on a shelf clear the visual clutter completely.