How to make a frill collar

1. Materials & tools

Materials (For the adult size)

• Frill fabric (organza, broadcloth or tulle) — enough for 1–2 wide layers
• Neckband fabric (self or contrast)
• Sewing thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Frill collar” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the neck measurement, frill width, fullness (ratio) and tie length. Presets for child, adult and full (pierrot).
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Decide the measurements
   Set the neck, frill width and fullness. A higher ratio makes a denser, fuller frill.
2. Cut
   Cut 1–2 frills (more layers = fuller) and one neckband. The outer edge of the frill can be left raw (organza etc.) or double-folded.

4. Sewing

4-1. Finish the frill edge

1. Finish the outer edge and both ends of the frill with a double fold or an overlock (fabrics you leave raw can stay as-is).

4-2. Gather the frill

1. Run two rows of long stitches along the top and gather it down to the neck measurement. Gather stacked layers together.

4-3. Sandwich it in the neckband

1. Fold the neckband in half right sides together, sew the ends (ties) and turn out.
2. Sandwich the gathered top of the frill in the middle of the band and stitch. Use the notches as a guide.

✏️ Sheer fabrics gather beautifully but slip when sewing; place tissue paper on top and sew through it, then tear it away, for easier handling.

5. Tips & variations

• Layer colors: two frills in different colors flash color as they move.
• Change the character: white for a pierrot, black for gothic, gold or red for a noble look.
• Everyday too: layered over a plain top, it is an accent that brightens the neckline.