How to make a fabric brooch

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one brooch, standard size)

• Fabric (linen, wool or felt) — about 15 × 10 cm (scraps are fine)
• Toy stuffing — a small amount
• A brooch pin, 25 mm — 1
• Hand-sewing thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Fabric brooch” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the size and the shape (round, flower or leaf). Presets cover round, flower, leaf and large.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines.
2. Cut the pieces
   Cut two. Different fabrics front and back are fine.
3. Embroider first
   Any embroidery goes on the front piece before the two are joined.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the two pieces

1. Place them right sides together and sew around.
2. Leave about 3 cm open at the bottom. It is small, so a narrow gap will not turn.
3. Trim the curved allowance to 5 mm and clip every 1 cm.

4-2. Turn and stuff

1. Turn right side out and shape it with an awl.
2. Add a little stuffing. Not too much.
3. Flower and leaf shapes resist stuffing in the concave parts — push it in a little at a time.

4-3. Close and add the pin

1. Close the opening with ladder stitch.
2. Stitch the brooch pin to the back, slightly above center so it hangs straight.
3. Secure it in at least four places.

✏️ Go light on the stuffing. It is tempting to fill it out, but an overstuffed brooch bulges at the back, will not sit flat, and stands away from the garment. Enough that you feel the base when you press is plenty.

5. Tips & variations

• Pin above center: set at the center, the weight tips it forward. Slightly high sits straight.
• Add embroidery: a few stitches for veins or a flower center give it character.
• As a gift: in a small box it makes a good present.