How to make a camera strap

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one strap)

• Main fabric (8 oz canvas, heavy cotton or denim) — about 110 cm wide × 30 cm
• Lining fabric for the shoulder pad — about 40 cm × 15 cm
• Quilt batting — about 40 cm × 15 cm
• Lightweight fusible interfacing — enough for the strap and the tabs

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Camera strap” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the overall length, the finished strap width, the shoulder pad length and the attachment tab width. Presets cover standard, short and wide.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Choose the length
   Standard is the length that puts the camera at the base of your sternum when worn around the neck. Measuring a strap you already own is the surest way. Add about 20 cm to wear it crossbody.
2. Trace the pattern
   Trace the strap, the shoulder pad and the attachment tabs. All are rectangles.
3. Cut the pieces
   Cut 1 strap, 1 shoulder pad in the outer, 1 in the lining, 1 in batting, and 2 tabs.
4. Fuse the interfacing
   Fuse lightweight interfacing to the strap and the tabs. These carry the weight of the camera, so they must not stretch.

4. Sewing

4-1. Make the strap

1. Fold the strap in four (both edges to the center, then in half) and press.
2. Topstitch 3 mm from both long edges. It is long, so release the clips as you go and keep it straight.
3. Canvas folded in four gets thick. Increase the presser foot pressure and change to a size 90/14 needle or heavier.

4-2. Make the attachment tabs

1. Fold each tab in four and topstitch. Make both the same.
2. The tabs are narrow, so press the folds and hold them with clips rather than trying to fold as you sew.
3. Every bit of the camera's weight lands here. Topstitch both long edges without exception.

4-3. Make the shoulder pad

1. Place the pad's outer and lining right sides together with the batting behind.
2. Sew all round except one long edge, and turn right side out.
3. Wrap the pad around the middle of the strap, fold the open edge under, and stitch through the strap as you close it.
4. Stitch both ends of the pad to the strap as well so it cannot slide.

4-4. Attach the tabs

1. Overlap one end of a tab onto the end of the strap and stitch a box with a cross through it. That is the strongest way to do it.
2. Thread the other end through the camera's strap lug, fold it back and stitch it the same way.
3. Hang the camera on it and inspect the stitching. If you have any doubt at all, sew it again.

✏️ Attach the tabs with a box stitch — a rectangle with a cross through it. Every bit of the camera's weight passes through those four points. A single line of stitching, or backstitching alone, eventually gives way and drops the camera. Use a heavier polyester thread too.

5. Tips & variations

• Length guide: worn on the neck, the camera should sit at the base of your sternum. Add 20 cm for crossbody. Measuring a strap you own is quickest.
• The pad is optional: for a light compact camera, the strap and tabs alone are fine. Add it for a DSLR.
• Use hardware: swivel hooks and rings let you take the strap off, which is handy on a tripod.