How to attach bias tape
Bias tape is a narrow strip cut at 45° to the grain. Because it stretches, it follows a curve without fighting you, which makes it the standard finish for necklines, armholes and hems. There are two ways to put it on.
1. What bias tape is
Cut at 45° to the grain, fabric stretches and moulds to a curve. Shop-bought double-fold tape is the quick option; making your own from the same fabric lets you match the color. Pick the width to suit the job.
2. Bound: wrap the edge
The tape wraps the raw edge and shows on the outside, so it doubles as a trim.
- Open out one fold of the tape, lay it on the right side of the fabric right sides together, and stitch along the fold line.
- Wrap the tape to the wrong side and stitch close to the edge (or slipstitch by hand).
- On a curve, ease the tape along while pulling it very slightly — that stops it rippling.
3. Faced: hide it inside
The tape is turned entirely to the inside, so nothing shows on the outside. A cleaner look.
- Lay the tape on the right side of the fabric, right sides together, and stitch all the way round.
- Press the seam allowance towards the tape, then turn the whole tape to the inside.
- Topstitch from the right side (or stitch in the ditch) to hold it down.
4. Curves and joins
- Curves: ease the tape along while stretching it very slightly. Clip the seam allowance so it does not pull when turned.
- Joining the ends: overlap them slightly, or butt them together and finish.
- Corners: fold the tape back on itself at the corner and stitch — that is what lets it turn cleanly.
Frequently asked questions
- Shop-bought or homemade?
- Shop-bought double-fold tape is easier; homemade lets you match the fabric. Start with shop-bought and you will make fewer mistakes.
- My curves ripple.
- Ease the tape along while pulling it slightly, and clip the seam allowance on outward curves. The tape is cut on the bias, so it has the give to follow the shape.
- Where is it used?
- Anywhere with a curved raw edge — necklines, armholes, hems and around bibs.
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