Wide pants (elastic waist): sewing steps in pictures
The sewing steps from “How to sew a wide pants (elastic waist)”, one at a time, each with a diagram. Tap the round numbered buttons to move between steps.Red line = sew here. Blue dotted line = leave open or fold.
1. Sew the crotch seams
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Two fronts right sides together, waist and crotch point lined up Place the two fronts right sides together
Lay the two front pieces right sides together. Line up the waist end of the crotch curve and the crotch point (the part that sticks out furthest) and pin.
The front and back are different shapes. The front has the shallower crotch curve and a straight waist.
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Sew from the waist to the crotch, stitching the curve twice Sew the crotch seam, stitching the curve twice
Sew from the waist to the crotch point with a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam. Along the curve, sew a second row just outside the first.
The crotch curve takes the most strain when you sit or crouch.
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Sew the backs too and press opposite to the front Sew the backs and press the allowances opposite ways
Sew the two backs the same way. Zigzag the allowances together and press the front and back allowances in opposite directions.
Pressed in opposite directions, the allowances don't stack up where the seams cross later.
2. Sew the side seams
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Front on back, right sides together, side notches matched Place front on back and match the side notches
Put the sewn front and back right sides together, line up the crotch seams top and bottom, and pin both side seams with the notches matched.
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Sew both side seams from the waist to the hem Sew both side seams
Sew both side seams from the waist to the hem with a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam. Press the allowances open or toward the back.
3. Sew the inseam
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Match the crotch point and inseam notches and pin Match the crotch point and the inseam notches
Match exactly where the front and back crotch seams cross, line up the inseam notches and pin.
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Sew from one hem through the crotch to the other hem Sew from hem to hem in one seam
Sew from one hem, through the crotch point, to the other hem with a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam. Go over the area around the crotch point a second time.
4. Hem the legs
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Double-fold the hems and press Double-fold the hems and press
Turn the hem allowance under 1 cm (3/8 in), then fold the rest up into a double fold and press.
The hem corners on the pattern are shaped so they lie against the side and inseam once folded up.
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Stitch by the fold, starting at the inseam Stitch by the fold all the way round
Starting at the inseam, stitch close to the fold (about 2 mm / 1/16 in in) all the way round, overlapping the start slightly.
5. Thread the waist elastic
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Double-fold and stitch round, leaving an opening Double-fold the waist and stitch, leaving an opening
Turn the waist allowance under 1 cm (3/8 in), then fold down by the “Waist turn-down” width. Stitch round, leaving an opening near center back a little wider than the elastic.
The back waist is higher at the center. The corners of the turn-down are shaped to lie against the side and center once folded.
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Cut the elastic to the guide length and thread it round Cut the elastic and thread it
Cut the elastic to the guide length shown below the pattern (about 90% of your waist) and thread it all the way round with a bodkin.
Pin the other end of the elastic to the pants so it doesn't get pulled inside.
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Overlap and stitch the elastic ends, then close the opening Settle the length and stitch the ends
Try them on to settle the length, overlap the ends by about the elastic's width and stitch. Tuck the elastic inside and sew the opening closed.
Make the pattern free with Katagami. Change the size and try it straight away.
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