Sleeveless dress: sewing steps in pictures

The sewing steps from “How to sew a sleeveless dress”, one at a time, each with a diagram. Tap the round numbered buttons to move between steps.Red line = sew here. Blue dotted line = leave open or fold.

1. Sew the darts

  1. Fold so the dart lines meet, right sides together, and sew Don't backstitch the point; tie the threads Press toward the center
    Sew the bodice and skirt darts

    Sew the darts and press them toward the center

    Fold each bodice and skirt dart right sides together so the lines meet, pin, and sew from the wide end to the point. Don't backstitch the point — tie the threads and trim. Press toward the center, easing the point with the tip of the iron.

    If the point isn't sewn off finely, it shows as a pleat-like step from the outside.

2. Sew the waist

  1. Bodice wrong side up on the skirt; sew the waist Match the darts and sides
    Bodice on skirt, right sides together; sew the waist

    Join the bodice and skirt at the waist

    Place the front bodice on the front skirt, and each back bodice on its back skirt, right sides together, matching the darts and side edges. Sew the waist, finish both allowances together and press them toward the bodice.

3. Sew the center back and insert the zip

  1. From the zip notch down to the hem Zip above (from the neckline to the notch)
    Sew the center back from the notch to the hem

    Sew from the zip notch to the hem

    Place the two backs right sides together and sew from the center-back notch (the bottom of the zip opening) down to the hem. Press the seam open.

  2. From the notch to the neckline, baste with a long stitch No backstitching and press open
    Baste above the notch with a long stitch and press open

    Baste above the notch and press open

    Machine-baste from the notch up to the neckline with the longest stitch and no backstitching. Press the seam allowances open.

    Baste in a thread that stands out against the fabric so it is easy to see when you unpick it.

  3. From the zip notch down to the hem Zip above (from the neckline to the notch)
    Insert the zip above the notch

    Insert the invisible zip

    Pin the zip to the pressed-open allowances, unpick the basting, then sew it in with its top at the neckline stitching line, stitching right next to the teeth with an invisible-zip foot.

    Use a zip at least as long as the pattern note says; stop it at the notch and trim the excess below.

4. Sew the shoulders and sides

  1. Front on back, right sides together; sew shoulders and sides Match the waist seams
    Sew the shoulders, then the sides from underarm to hem

    Sew both shoulders and both sides

    Place front and back right sides together and sew both shoulders. Then sew both sides from the underarm to the hem, matching the waist seams. Press the seams open.

5. Bind the neckline and armholes

  1. Bind from one side of the zip to the other Fold 1 cm under at each end
    Bind the neckline from one side of the zip to the other

    Bind the neckline from one side of the zip to the other

    Fold 1 cm under at each end of the neckline bias. Sew it to the right side of the neckline, turn it to the inside to enclose the allowance, and stitch close to its edge from the right side.

    Ease the bias slightly round the curve so the neckline lies flat.

  2. Start at the side seam and bind all round Overlap the end 1 cm over the start
    Start at the side seam, bind all round and overlap 1 cm

    Bind each armhole all the way round

    Starting at the side seam, sew the armhole bias to the right side of the armhole all the way round, overlapping the end 1 cm over the start. Turn it to the inside to enclose the allowance and stitch close to its edge from the right side.

6. Finish the hem

  1. Turn up 3 cm at the hem and slip-stitch
    Turn up 3 cm at the hem and slip-stitch

    Turn up 3 cm at the hem and slip-stitch

    Turn up 3 cm at the skirt hem, press, and slip-stitch.

Make the pattern free with Katagami. Change the size and try it straight away.

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