Kids' jacket: sewing steps in pictures

1Place both fronts on the back and sew the shoulders

Lay the back right side up and place the two fronts on it wrong side up, so the right sides face each other. Line up the shoulder ends and the neckline ends, pin, and sew along the stitching line 1 cm (3/8 in) from the edge.

The overlap extends beyond the center front, so the two fronts cross at the center.

2Press the shoulder allowances open

Open the body out flat and press the shoulder allowances open.

1Run two rows of gathering stitches in the sleeve head

Using the longest machine stitch, sew two rows in the sleeve-head allowance: one about 2 mm outside the stitching line and one beyond it. Leave long thread ends.

Don't backstitch — you will pull these threads.

2Pull up the threads to shape the sleeve head

Pull both bobbin threads together to ease the sleeve head to the length of the armhole. Spread the fullness either side of the center and keep it away from the underarm. Pressing the allowance with the tip of the iron smooths it into a curve.

The sleeve head is a little longer than the armhole (the pattern note gives the amount). Ease it smoothly, without forming gathers.

3Match the notches and sew the armhole

Place the sleeve on the body right sides together. Match the center notch to the shoulder seam and the ends of the sleeve to the underarm, then pin. Sew the armhole from end to end with the sleeve on top. Zigzag both allowances together and press them toward the sleeve.

1Sew from the cuff to the hem in one seam

Fold right sides together at the shoulders and match the armhole seams exactly at the underarm. Sew from the cuff, through the underarm and down to the hem with a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam, then press the allowances open.

Pin straight through the underarm seams first so they don't shift.

1Sew the facing to the front edge

Place the interfaced facing on the right side of the front, right sides together. Line up the front edge, pin, and sew from the neckline down to the hem line.

2Turn the facing and press the edge

Press the allowance toward the facing and turn the facing to the inside. Roll the edge about 1 mm toward the inside so the facing doesn't show, and press. Baste the facing and front together at the neckline, inside the allowance.

The basting keeps the facing from shifting when you bind the neckline.

1Bind the neckline from front edge to front edge

Fold 1 cm under at each end of the bias strip. Sew it to the right side of the neckline, turn it to the inside so it encloses the allowance and the facings, and stitch close to its edge from the right side.

Ease the bias slightly round the curve so the neckline lies flat.

1Turn up 3 cm at the hem and cuffs and sew

Turn up 3 cm (1 1/4 in) at the hem and cuffs and press, then slip-stitch, or topstitch 2.5 cm from the fold. Turn under 1 cm at the bottom of each facing and slip-stitch it to the hem.

1Make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons

On the upper front, work horizontal buttonholes at the center-front notches, starting 3 mm beyond the center front toward the edge. Sew the buttons on the center front of the other front.

If you use snaps, place them on the center-front notches too.