How to make a tutu skirt (costume)

A fluffy tulle skirt gathered onto an elastic band. The more layers of tulle, the more volume. It sews onto a flat elastic band, so sizing is easy, and tulle does not fray so the hem needs no finishing.

1. Materials & tools

Materials (For the adult size (38 cm length))

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Tools

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2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

  1. Open the tool
    Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Tutu skirt (costume)” from the tabs at the top.
  2. Enter the size
    Enter the waist, skirt length and fullness (ratio). Presets for child, adult and extra full. A higher ratio means more volume.
  3. Set the seam allowance
    Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
  4. Print
    Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

  1. Decide the measurements
    Set the length and the fullness ratio. A higher ratio means more gathers and more volume. Use the top-edge figure shown in the tool as a guide.
  2. Cut
    Cut 3–5 layers of tulle to the same rectangle. Cut one waistband.

4. Sewing

4-1. Gather the tulle

  1. Keeping the layers together, run two rows of long machine stitches along the top edge.
  2. Pull the bobbin threads to gather it down to the waist measurement. Spread the gathers evenly.

4-2. Attach the waistband

  1. Cut the flat elastic to the waist length and join it into a ring (or thread it through the band strip).
  2. Sew the gathered tulle onto the band, or sandwich it in the folded band and stitch.

4-3. Finish

  1. The hem can be left raw — tulle does not fray.
  2. Cutting the hem in steps, or layering tulle of different lengths, adds movement.

✏️ If see-through is a concern, add a plain (ungathered) satin under-skirt inside; it hides underwear and helps the tulle stand out.

fold to make a channel elastic stitch
Fold the edge under and stitch; thread the elastic through the channel.

5. Tips & variations

Generate the pattern for free in Katagami and print it at actual size. Change the size and try again in seconds.

Open the pattern tool →