How to make a pencil skirt

1. Materials & tools

Materials (size M)

• Main fabric (twill, gabardine or wool) — about 110 cm wide × 150 cm (43 × 59 in)
• Concealed or regular zipper — 1 (at least the length given in the pattern notes)
• Fusible interfacing for the waistband — about 10 × 80 cm (4 × 31 in)
• Stay tape (1 cm wide) — about 50 cm (20 in)
• Skirt hook and eye — 1 set
• Optional: lining

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Pencil skirt” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter waist, hip, skirt length, hip depth, hem taper and back slit. Enter your body measurements; the pattern adds the ease. Presets cover S–XL.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Place the center (left edge) of the pattern on the fold and trace the cut and seam lines. Transfer the darts and the side notches (hip line and zipper stop).
2. Cut
   Cut one front on the fold and two backs (left and right), and one waistband.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the side and hem allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the darts

1. Sew the darts on the front and back from the waist toward the point. Do not backstitch at the point; leave 2–3 cm of thread and tie it off.
2. Press the darts toward the center. Press the tip over a rounded surface so it does not form a bubble.

4-2. Sew the center back

1. Sew the two backs right sides together from the waist down to the center-back notch (the top of the slit), backstitching at the notch.
2. Press the seam open and press the slit allowances back on each side.

4-3. Sew the sides

1. Place front and back right sides together and sew the right side seam from waist to hem.
2. On the left side, sew from the notch (the zipper stop) down to the hem, backstitching at the notch.
3. Press the allowances open. Fuse stay tape to the allowances along the left-side opening.

4-4. Insert the zipper

1. Press the opening allowances to the seam line and baste the zipper behind them so the teeth sit under the folds.
2. With a zipper foot, stitch both sides of the opening. Stop the top of the zipper about 1 cm below the waist seam line to leave room for the waistband.

4-5. Attach the waistband

1. Fuse interfacing to the waistband, fold it in half lengthwise and press. Press under the allowance on one long edge.
2. Match the waistband notches to the center front, right side and center back, and sew it to the skirt waist right sides together, with the 3 cm underlap extending at the back of the left side.
3. Sew across both ends right sides together and turn. Bring the pressed edge over the waist seam and stitch in the ditch from the right side to hold it.

4-6. Finish the hem and slit

1. Press up and stitch the hem. Lay the slit allowances over the hem allowance, miter the corners and slip-stitch them.
2. Sew a skirt hook to the underlap and you're done.

✏️ The slit is capped at half the skirt length. A long skirt with a short slit leaves no room to walk.

5. Tips & variations

• Lining: cut the lining from the same pattern and catch it in the waistband for a skirt that does not cling.
• Ease: the pattern adds 2 cm at the waist and 4 cm at the hip. Enter your body measurements.
• Length names: knee length just covers the knee, midi reaches the calf and maxi reaches the ankle. Measuring a skirt you already own is the surest guide.