How to make a pencil case

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one case)

• Main fabric (canvas, corduroy or heavy cotton) — about 40 × 30 cm (16 × 12 in)
• Lining fabric (light cotton) — the same amount
• Firm fusible interfacing — for the main fabric
• Zip — about 2 cm (¾ in) longer than the finished width
• Optional: fabric for zip end tabs

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Pencil case” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the finished width, height and gusset depth. Presets cover slim, standard and large.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the body (base on the fold) and the zip end tabs.
2. Cut
   Cut the body in main and lining, plus two tabs.
3. Apply interfacing
   Fuse firm interfacing to the main fabric. This is what makes it stand up, so do not skip it.

4. Sewing

4-1. Add the zip tabs

1. Fold each tab in quarters and press.
2. Fold a tab over each end of the zip and topstitch. This hides the metal stops and lets you fine-tune the length.

4-2. Insert the zip

1. Lay the zip right sides together on one top edge of the main fabric, then lay the lining on top and sew all three layers.
2. Open the two fabrics away from the zip and topstitch close to the zip teeth.
3. Repeat on the other top edge with the other side of the zip.
4. That main–zip–lining sandwich is what keeps all the raw edges enclosed.

4-3. Sew the sides

1. Open the zip halfway — you will need it open to turn the case through.
2. Arrange main against main and lining against lining, right sides together, and sew both side seams. Leave an 8 cm (3 in) gap in one lining seam.
3. Turn the handwheel by hand over the zip teeth.

4-4. Box the corners and turn

1. Pinch each base corner into a triangle, matching the side seam to the base fold, and sew across at the gusset depth. Trim to 1 cm.
2. Do the same on the lining.
3. Turn everything through the gap, close it, push the lining in and shape the case.

✏️ Buy the zip 2 cm longer than the finished width. Cut exactly to size, the metal stops end up inside the side seam allowance and you cannot sew past them. Too long is easy to hide with tabs; too short cannot be fixed.

5. Tips & variations

• Firm interfacing: soft interfacing makes it slump, which defeats the boxy shape.
• Stand it up: on its end with the zip open, it is a pen pot. That is the reason for the boxy shape.
• Other sizes: the same construction makes a glasses case or a tool roll.