How to make a plush sailor uniform

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one outfit for a 20 cm plush)

• Main fabric (light cotton or broadcloth) — about 30 × 20 cm
• Contrast fabric for the collar — about 12 × 8 cm
• White ribbon tape, 3 mm — about 25 cm
• Hook-and-loop tape, 1 cm — about 5 cm
• Size 9 needle and fine thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Fandom” → “Plush sailor uniform” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the chest, length and the rest. Presets cover 10, 15 and 20 cm plushies and a 27 cm doll.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the plush
   Chest at its widest, and the length you want from the shoulder. Two plushies both sold as "20 cm" can be quite different, so measure yours.
2. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines. At this scale a fine chalk pencil works better than a marker.
3. Cut the pieces
   If the fabric frays, seal the edges or zigzag them straight away.
4. Transfer the notches
   The smaller the garment, the more the notches matter. Do not skip them.

4. Sewing

4-1. Add the lines to the collar

1. Topstitch two lengths of white tape to the collar's outer fabric, 3 mm and 6 mm from the edge.
2. Do this first. Once assembled, the presser foot will not reach.
3. Fold the tape at 45 degrees to turn the corners.

4-2. Make the collar

1. Place outer and lining right sides together and sew the three outer edges, leaving the neck edge open.
2. Trim the corners diagonally and turn.
3. Make two.

4-3. Sew the bodice

1. Place front and back right sides together and sew the shoulders.
2. Baste the collar to the neckline and bind the neckline with a bias strip or self fabric.
3. Finish the sleeve openings first, then sew from sleeve to hem in one run.

4-4. Attach the skirt

1. Sew the skirt's side seams into a loop.
2. Run two rows of long stitches along the top edge and gather to the bodice's hem measurement.
3. Sew it to the bodice, press the allowance up, hem the skirt, and add hook-and-loop at the back opening.

✏️ Add the white lines before the collar is assembled. Once the pieces are sewn together the presser foot cannot get in, and the lines will not run straight. With plush clothes the rule is to do everything possible while the piece is still flat.

5. Tips & variations

• 3 mm tape: wider reads childish, narrower disappears.
• Fuller skirt: increasing the gather ratio gives a pleated look.
• Add a scarf: a triangle of fabric knotted at the front finishes it.
• Seam allowance is 5 mm: at 1 cm the allowances collide and the garment will not turn out cleanly.
• Size 9 needle, fine thread: a heavy needle leaves holes in the fabric.
• Mock it up in paper: assembling it once in interfacing or copy paper shows up any problem with length or ease.