How to make a plush jinbei

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one outfit for a 20 cm plush)

• Main fabric (Japanese cotton print or chirimen crepe) — about 30 × 20 cm
• Size 9 needle and fine thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Fandom” → “Plush jinbei” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the chest, length and the rest. Presets cover 10, 15 and 20 cm plushies and a 27 cm doll.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the plush
   Chest at its widest, and the length you want from the shoulder. Two plushies both sold as "20 cm" can be quite different, so measure yours.
2. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines. At this scale a fine chalk pencil works better than a marker.
3. Cut the pieces
   If the fabric frays, seal the edges or zigzag them straight away.
4. Transfer the notches
   The smaller the garment, the more the notches matter. Do not skip them.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders and sides

1. Place the back and the two fronts right sides together and sew the shoulders.
2. The sleeves are cut in one with the body, so there is nothing to set in.
3. Sew from the underarm down the side, stopping at the notch.

4-2. Attach the collar

1. Fold the collar in half lengthwise and press.
2. Sew it round the neckline and down both front edges, enclosing the raw edge.
3. Clips are easier than pins at this size.

4-3. Add the cords and hem

1. Fold the four side cords in four and topstitch.
2. Stitch two to each side, just above the notch.
3. Turn the cuffs and hem under 5 mm and stitch.

4-4. Sew the pants

1. Place front and back right sides together and sew the crotch.
2. Sew the sides and inseam.
3. Turn the waist and hems under 5 mm and stitch.

✏️ Leave the side seams open for about 40% of the top's length from the hem. Sew them closed and you have an ordinary straight-cut shirt. That opening is what makes it a jinbei, and it changes the silhouette on the plush.

5. Tips & variations

• Small prints only: asanoha or ichimatsu read clearly even at this size.
• It becomes a yukata: leave out the pants and lengthen the top.
• Add an obi: a narrow strip tied at the back finishes it.
• Seam allowance is 5 mm: at 1 cm the allowances collide and the garment will not turn out cleanly.
• Size 9 needle, fine thread: a heavy needle leaves holes in the fabric.
• Mock it up in paper: assembling it once in interfacing or copy paper shows up any problem with length or ease.