How to make a pinafore dress

1. Materials & tools

Materials (size 110 cm)

• Main fabric (corduroy, linen or cotton) — about 110 cm wide × 90 cm (44 × 35 in)
• Lining fabric for the bib — about 30 × 30 cm (12 × 12 in)
• Optional: 2 buttons for adjustable straps

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Kids' clothes” → “Pinafore dress” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter chest, total length, bodice length, strap length and width, gather ratio and ease. Presets cover 90–130 cm.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the bib, the skirt panels and the straps.
2. Cut
   Cut the bib in outer and lining (front and back), two skirt panels and two straps.
3. Finish the edges
   Zigzag or serge the skirt side seams.

4. Sewing

4-1. Make the straps

1. Fold each strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, sew the long edge, turn and press. Make two.

4-2. Make the bib

1. Baste the straps to the right side of the front bib at the marked positions, pointing inward so they end up outside once turned.
2. Sew the bib outer and lining right sides together along the top and both sides, leaving the lower edge open.
3. Trim the corners, turn and press. Make the back bib the same way.

4-3. Make the skirt

1. Sew the two skirt panels together at both sides to form a loop.
2. Run two rows of long stitches along the top edge and pull the threads until it matches the width of the bib.

4-4. Join and finish

1. Pin the lower edge of the bib to the gathered skirt edge, right sides together, spreading the gathers evenly, and sew.
2. Press the allowance towards the bib and topstitch from the right side.
3. Hem the skirt with a double fold.
4. Thread the straps through the back bib and button them, or stitch them down directly.

✏️ Always gather with two rows of stitching and pull both threads together. One row snaps partway along and leaves the gathers uneven.

5. Tips & variations

• Adjustable straps: buttons on the back bib and two or three buttonholes in each strap let it grow with the child.
• Add pockets: patch pockets on the skirt are the first thing a child looks for.
• Autumn version: corduroy or wool over tights makes this a winter dress.