How to make a dolman-sleeve top

1. Materials & tools

Materials (size M)

• Main fabric (jersey, rayon or other fabric with drape) — about 150 cm wide × 130 cm (59 × 51 in)
• Bias tape or ribbing for the neckline — about 60 cm (24 in)
• Ballpoint needle and stretch thread if using knit

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Adult clothes” → “Dolman-sleeve top” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter bust, length, sleeve reach from center, cuff width, neck width and ease. Presets cover S, M, L and a cropped version.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace the front and back. Both are wide — the sleeve is part of the piece — so check your fabric width first.
2. Cut
   Cut one front and one back, each with the center on the fold.
3. Finish the edges
   Serge or zigzag the shoulder, underarm and side allowances.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders

1. Place front and back right sides together and sew along the top edge, from the neckline out to the cuff.
2. This one seam forms the shoulder and the top of the sleeve at the same time.

4-2. Sew the underarm and sides

1. Sew from the cuff, through the underarm curve and down to the hem in one continuous line.
2. Clip into the underarm curve — it is a tight corner and will pull if you do not.

4-3. Finish the neckline

1. Bind the neckline with bias tape, or attach ribbing stretched slightly as you sew.
2. Ribbing should be about 85% of the neckline length so it pulls in and sits flat.

4-4. Cuffs and hem

1. Turn the cuffs and hem under twice and stitch.

✏️ The underarm is the one place this shape can fail. It is a tight curve carrying all the movement, so clip the allowance and sew a second line just outside the first before you clip.

5. Tips & variations

• Fabric with drape: the whole point of a dolman is the fold of fabric under the arm. Stiff cotton looks boxy.
• Cropped version: shortening the body makes it work over high-waisted skirts and trousers.
• Longer sleeve: increasing the sleeve reach gives a full batwing.