How to make a baby coverall (all-in-one)

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one coverall, size 70-80)

• Main fabric (jersey, interlock or double gauze) — about 110 cm wide × 90 cm
• Bias tape for the neckline — about 60 cm
• Plastic snaps — 12 to 15 sets (center front and inseam)
• A ballpoint (jersey) needle, size 75/11, and stretch thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Baby” → “Baby coverall (all-in-one)” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the chest, body length (shoulder to crotch), inseam, shoulder width, sleeve length, neckline width, leg opening and ease. Presets cover 50-60 through 80-90.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Trace the pattern
   Trace three pieces: front, back and sleeve. The front has an extension along the center front edge for the snap placket. Place the back on the fold.
2. Cut the pieces
   Cut 2 fronts (left and right), 1 back on the fold and 2 sleeves. Flip the pattern over for the second front so the pair mirrors.
3. Transfer the notches
   Mark the underarm notch and the inseam notch. If those two are off, the sleeve and the inseam will not meet.
4. Finish the edges
   Overlock or zigzag. Knit stretches, so let the feed dogs pull the fabric rather than tugging it through.

4. Sewing

4-1. Sew the shoulders

1. Place front and back right sides together and sew both shoulder seams.
2. Knit shoulders stretch out over time. Stabilize them with clear elastic or a narrow strip of selvage caught in the seam.
3. Press the seam allowances towards the back.

4-2. Set in the sleeves

1. Attach each sleeve to the armhole while the garment is still flat, before the side seams are closed.
2. Match the notch at the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.
3. The sleeve cap is very slightly longer than the armhole. Distribute that ease with pins rather than letting it bunch in one spot.
4. Press the seam allowances towards the body.

4-3. Sew side, underarm and inseam in one run

1. Fold the coverall right sides together and sew from the cuff, down the underarm, through the armpit and along the side, in one continuous seam. Repeat on the other side.
2. Then sew the inseam, matching the front and back inseam notches.
3. Leave the snap section of the inseam open. Backstitch where the opening ends.

4-4. Finish the neckline, front edge, cuffs and hems

1. Bind the neckline with bias tape, easing the tape gently around the curve.
2. Double-fold the center front edges by 1 cm and 1 cm again and stitch. This is the placket the snaps go into.
3. Hem the cuffs and the leg openings. Use a zigzag or stretch stitch so the hems still give.
4. Fit plastic snaps evenly down the center front (about every 10 cm) and three along the inseam.

✏️ Put the male half of each inseam snap on the front and the female half on the back. Reversed, the raised stud presses into baby's back whenever they lie down. It looks like a trivial detail, and babies cannot tell you about it — check the orientation before you set them.

5. Tips & variations

• Knit is the right choice: a woven fabric restricts rolling and crawling. Choose jersey or interlock with real stretch.
• Why front-opening: unlike a pullover, you can dress a baby lying down, before they can hold their head up. Make newborn sizes front-opening.
• Closed feet: close the leg openings into a bag rather than hemming them and you get built-in feet — worth it for a winter newborn size.