How to make a casquette

1. Materials & tools

Materials (one hat, size M)

• Main fabric (linen, corduroy or denim) — about 110 cm wide × 50 cm (43 × 20 in)
• Heavyweight fusible interfacing — about 35 × 20 cm (two brim pieces)
• Fabric for the inner band — about 60 × 6 cm
• Sewing thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (or needle and thread)
• Fabric marker or pencil
• Ruler and scissors
• Iron
• Pins or clips

2. Make the pattern (auto-generated in Katagami)

With the Katagami pattern tool, you just enter the finished size and it drafts a seam-allowance-included pattern, tiled to print at actual size on Letter or A4.

1. Open the tool
   Open the pattern tool and choose “Accessories” → “Casquette” from the tabs at the top.
2. Enter the size
   Enter the head circumference, the depth and the brim projection. Presets cover child, S, M and L.
3. Set the seam allowance
   Use the slider at the bottom (beginners: 1.0–1.5 cm / about 3/8–5/8 in).
4. Print
   Press “Print (actual size)”, then in the print dialog set Scale = 100% and turn “Fit to page” OFF. Check the 50 mm calibration box on the first guide sheet with a ruler.

3. Cutting the fabric

1. Measure the head
   Round the head above the brows and over the ears. Enter that measurement plus 1 cm.
2. Trace the pattern
   Lay the pattern on the wrong side and trace both lines.
3. Cut the pieces
   6 panels, 2 brim pieces, 1 inner band. Also 2 brim pieces in interfacing.
4. Transfer the notches
   Mark the bottom of each panel and the center of the brim.

4. Sewing

4-1. Build the crown

1. Place two panels right sides together and sew one curved edge. Make three pairs.
2. Join the pairs in turn so the six panels form a ring.
3. Press the allowances open and topstitch either side to settle the shape.
4. All six meet at the top. The fabric piles up there, so go slowly.

4-2. Make the brim

1. Fuse interfacing to both brim pieces.
2. Place them right sides together and sew the outer curve.
3. Clip the allowance, turn and press.
4. Two rows of topstitching, at 5 mm and 1 cm from the edge, give it the bought look.

4-3. Attach the brim

1. Match the center front of the crown to the center notch of the brim.
2. Sew the brim to the lower edge of the crown, right sides together.
3. The brim covers only the front half, not the whole circumference.

4-4. Attach the inner band

1. Sew the inner band right round the lower edge of the crown, right sides together.
2. Fold it to the inside and topstitch. That also hides the brim's allowance.

✏️ Use two layers of interfacing in the brim. One layer collapses and the brim droops as soon as it is worn. Heavyweight interfacing fused to both brim pieces gives a brim that survives washing.

5. Tips & variations

• Head measurement plus 1 cm: exact feels tight once it is on.
• Corduroy nap: cut all six panels the same way up or they read as different colors.
• Add a lining: the same panel pattern makes a lining that hides every seam.